The vaporetto shed some shutterbugs in Murano, but many more got on for points remoter,

motored across the lagoon [not shown] and through the channel

between Burano and Mazzorbo

to Burano where most debarked.

Not us; we continued to Torcello, said to be the first island settled in the lagoon, to visit

the Basilica, climb the campanile

[note leaning tower of the Parrochia San Martino Vescovo, top left below]

and descend into a warm afternoon

[note solid stone [yes!] shutters]

for an elegant birthday lunch outside beside a manicured if somewhat eccentric lawn.

Seppie e tinta, black with creamy white polenta, is fondly remembered.

Afterwards skipped the Museo di Torcello, which was later found to have been founded

by Enrico’s great uncle in favor of bitter espresso [some maps more confusing, below]

in styrofoam on our way to the confusingly scheduled boat which nonetheless

eventually

arrived to take us back through the channel

and across the Lagoon [note leaning tower, far right, below]

to Murano for afternoon’s at times exhausting walking, shopping

[Linda found a pair of birthday glasses] and another

church, the Chiesa di San Pietro Martire.

After more walking in the sun of our warmest day

L. and I ducked into the glass museum, Museo Vetro,

with glassewares ancient,

historic and,

in the persons of Mario Bellini

and Lucio Fontana,

modern.

Meanwhile

Rick and Sandra sheltered in the Basilica di Santi Maria e Donato where we, by then unable to venture in, joined them outside to hear bits of a high mass beautifully sung before crossing

the island to sip spritzers by the water while watching the locals returning home

with children and dogs.

Once the the sun was down we walked In early dark

to the excellent Osteria Acquastanca for the meal I DO remember; an extraordinary caprese

[above] and gnocchi with fresh fresh crab.  The Birthday Spectacular it was, followed by

an inspired Birthday Surprise in the form of a spontaneously ordered watertaxi directly from

the Acquastanca to S. Toma, door to door to end the day.

 

28 September…Venezia, Italia.