Two Tuesdays ago we walked the neighborhood,
first to the Chiesa di San Rocco for some Tintoretto pictures,
then
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
for another, plus Titian, Donatello and much much more before
lunch in the immediate neighborhood at Impronta where I made the misstep, in an attempted
avoidance of pasta, of ordering what turned out to be the very boring chicken piccata.
Afterwards it was the Scuola di San Rocco for massive numbers of Tintorettos
[impossible to photograph so not shown; see link]
as well as the crazily elaborate woodcarvings of Francesco Pianta before
a well-earned rest in anticipation of our elegant dinner at the Osteria Enoteca ai Artisti where
we were seated next to a couple [and their large indulged dog] so exquisitely groomed and elegantly accessorized in gold as to leave me feeling very much the rumpled bumpkin.
This did not, however, detract from the enjoyment of an excellent meal.
Wednesday
we got down to Seriously Tracking Tintoretto with
“Jovane Tintoretto” at the Accademia, one of the several exhibitions around his natal town in
commemoration of the painter’s 500th anniversary. This culminated with “The Miracle of the Slave”, the painting that solidified his career…and convinced me as well.
Other things…
[and dogs, an apparent staple of Venetian painting] populated our morning
and early afternoon along with
some engaging 19th century views from the Accademia’s vast collections
…and other things
until lunch, very fine, at Estro, while at a neighboring table a well-dressed Venetian engaged in what was probably his habitual three course midday meal accompanied by two white wines
followed by a very assiduous contemplation of two reds.
Later that afternoon we crossed the canal by traghetto from S. Polo to Castello
[our humble abode, first floor with the pointy windows, all of ’em, above]
for one more church [Chiesa di Santo Stefano, I think] and the contemplation of Art Supplies
prior to our accustomed rest in preparation for another early dinner, which was
yet again at Estro, it being convenient to the Chiesa di San Rocco for “Ai Piedi della Croce”, an evening concert consisting of [primarily] Vivaldi performed by the Cameratta Accademica,
an exceptionally accomplished young chamber orchestra accompanied by alto and soprano voices, uplifting, inspirational and perfect in every way within the space. Naturally.
,
OMG, I am visually exhausted after your tour de force of Venice via compelling photos, powerful religious architecture, incredible paintings and dogs. Your pictures from crisp autumn daylight into moody nights are exceptional; the covered, striped speedboat a graphic favorite. Complex churches and lush murals make my head spin and the sheer amount of stunning art just keeps on coming! But all those oil borne Venetian canines can’t hold a candle to your description of the real life restaurant patron whose regal disposition and elaborate costuming crashed thru societal classes despite being a different species. A photo probably would not have conveyed as much new meaning to concepts like Man’s Best Friend and Doggie Diner.
And I haven’t mentioned the music and food; what a blizzard of culture and cuisine! You may need an emergency diet of Smoke Creek playa just to detox! Thanks… now I’m going to take a nap!!
The dog, inconspicuous, was ever the least of it; the tans, the perfect hair, his ascot and pocket square…her golden accoutrements and exquisite composure…all that. Plus the food, the wine, the desserts…yep, Smoke Creek to decompress sooner rather than later, though dunno when.
Really love the image of Linda! I did not see her at first which made it all the better.
You are seeing Venice the best way possible. I love wandering around and getting “lost”. There is a very fine gelateria (or used to be…) across from a gondola repair shop in Dorsoduro on Rio S. Trovaso off Fondamenta Zattere aiGesuati. It is just around the corner from where Vivaldi composed and worked…but I suspect you are not still in Venice….
Your suspicion is correct; too occupied to keep up I am only now [after the Other Half of Venice, a brief sojourn in St. Germain and a little more London] beginning to catch up…from Benicia. More anon…and, given our guidance, though we were often confused we were never exactly ‘lost’, though I know what you mean, yes.
BravoBravaBravoBravaBravo!
I am almost certain that you brought that blue sky with you from Colorado.
I feel massively indulged. The sliver of moon tower, the face in the volcanic cloud, and Francesco Pianta wood pieces. Curious as to the steadfast pursuit of the Tintorettos. The light, reflections, color (oh that green) of the city…unmatched anywhere.
The Tintorettos [on the food] are both passions of Mr. Watson’s…also, as it turns out, seeing every Caravaggio in existence; as we left he and Sandra were already on their way to Malta in pursuit…
Great, Mike. A super mix of pics and pictures.
Hi Michael…I’m a friend of Kirk’s and he sent me a link to your Venice photos. Here are my thoughts:
I just finished scrolling through and you obviously have an artist’s eye. You used the light beautifully in so many shots: the lone figure walking underneath the arcade in what looks to be the late afternoon, that ‘piece of paint’ peeling off that yellow wall with the shadow of that piece drawing in my eye, the night shot over that fence with those four colorfully-lit windows, the small white boat with the shadows of the poles on it….but I do NOT want to forget to mention the artsy reflection of three rolls of toilet paper turned into SIX. You have definitely got a sense of humor—runs in the family, I guess. Anyway, thanks so much for allowing me to accompany you on your trip to Venice. I found it to be a photographer’s Paradise when I was there.
Actually with all the selfie-takers and camer-aclickers and tourists I found it somewhat disconcerting to be taking pictures [usually I’m the only one doing that where I hang out] at all but I persevered…thanks for your thoughts!