Two Tuesdays ago we walked the neighborhood,

first to the Chiesa di San Rocco for some Tintoretto pictures,

then

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

for another, plus Titian, Donatello and much much more before

lunch in the immediate neighborhood at Impronta where I made the misstep, in an attempted

avoidance of pasta, of ordering what turned out to be the very boring chicken piccata.

Afterwards it was the Scuola di San Rocco for massive numbers of Tintorettos

[impossible to photograph so not shown; see link]

as well as the crazily elaborate woodcarvings of Francesco Pianta before

a well-earned rest in anticipation of our elegant dinner at the Osteria Enoteca ai Artisti where

we were seated next to a couple [and their large indulged dog] so exquisitely groomed and elegantly accessorized in gold as to leave me feeling very much the rumpled bumpkin.

This did not, however, detract from the enjoyment of an excellent meal.

Wednesday

we got down to Seriously Tracking Tintoretto with

“Jovane Tintoretto” at the Accademia, one of the several exhibitions around his natal town in

commemoration of the painter’s 500th anniversary.  This culminated with “The Miracle of the Slave”, the painting that solidified his career…and convinced me as well.

Other things…

[and dogs, an apparent staple of Venetian painting]  populated our morning

and early afternoon along with

some engaging 19th century views from the Accademia’s vast collections

…and other things

until lunch, very fine, at Estro, while at a neighboring table a well-dressed Venetian engaged in what was probably his habitual three course midday meal accompanied by two white wines

followed by a very assiduous contemplation of two reds.

Later that afternoon we crossed the canal by traghetto from S. Polo to Castello

[our humble abode, first floor with the pointy windows, all of ’em, above]

for one more church [Chiesa di Santo Stefano, I think] and the contemplation of Art Supplies

prior to our accustomed rest in preparation for another early dinner, which was

yet again at Estro, it being convenient to the Chiesa di San Rocco for “Ai Piedi della Croce”, an evening concert consisting of [primarily] Vivaldi performed by the Cameratta Accademica,

an exceptionally accomplished young chamber orchestra accompanied by alto and soprano voices, uplifting, inspirational and perfect in every way within the space.  Naturally.

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